Mikey272 wrote: Hello friends, I'm in the process of breaking in my triton 1 r speakers. I'm playing them at a low to mid volume with a speaker burin in cd that makes all kinds of funky sounds. The right speakers blue light is on when playing this disc. The left speakers blue light does not turn on, From what I can gather the speaker is working just not showing of the blue light during play. Is this typical? Is there a reset of some sort I can do to get both blue lights on when speakers are in use. When I plugged in the speaker that does not shine blue when playing, it did go through the 25 or so on off sequence when first attached. Can anyone offer me any insight here? A huge thank you to anyone who can help.
Kind regards,
Mikey dee.

If you turn the volume up, does the light come on? As an aside, we've found break-in to go much faster if you play the speakers pretty hard - but certainly not enough to cause any damage.

Is there live AC power to this speaker?

Can you switch speaker wire right to left and left to right (and unplug LFE if you're using those inputs)? Try that to see if the speaker comes on. Then try reversing the LFE cables if you're using them. We want to see if there is an issue before the speaker.

If the the things above don't help, try unplugging the speaker from AC power and let it sit for an hour or so, then plug it back in and observe if it is going through normal boot-up with the LED flashing for about 20-30 seconds or so. Then play something to see if it behaves normally.

Wow, thank you so much guys. Problem solved. I basically did everything you all said. I switched around the cables. unplugged everything for 20 minutes and other things you all mentioned. Reassembled everything and blue lights both show now. Thank you all so much.

Moderator wrote: I'll leave the relative performance comments on the T-Ref and T1.R to the forum members. But as good as it is, the T1.R cannot move as much air as the T-Ref nor can it go quite as deep in bass, limiting its ultimate dynamic range. Both are excellent products and are extremely high value. You really need to hear them to decide which is best for your needs.

The supplied AC power cords are about 9 feet long. If you want to try 3rd party upgrade cords, 12 or 10 gauge are good sizes to consider. We've only tried a few so I'd say to ask the group for feedback on upgraded cords. If you try new cords, you might want to install upgraded AC power outlets, too. They're easy to install and are generally less expensive than many other hi-fi tweaks.

What gauge power cord comes with the One.R originally?

Anyone find any regular (US), not 20A, cords that they are using?

Stock AC power cords in the US are 10 amp (18 gauge).

Moderator Dude...

That's interesting information. I'm using 12 ft aftermarket 20 A cables that are 14 gauge, and I noticed an improvement in bass slam with my TRefs. Also, they are plugged into my PS Audio P20, which has around 5 milliohm output impedance, and that helps too. I think anything you can do to reduce the resistance/impedance on the way to the speakers helps when those bass amps need power.

After post edit: the 14/3 power cords I have were labeled as 15 A, but have a 20 A NEMA 5-20P wall plug with the horizontal prong.
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W7THUQ/r..._title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Charlie

charliehatch wrote:
I'm using 12 ft aftermarket 20 A cables that are 14 gauge, and I noticed an improvement in bass slam with my TRefs. Also, they are plugged into my PS Audio P20, which has around 5 milliohm output impedance, and that helps too. I think anything you can do to reduce the resistance/impedance on the way to the speakers helps when those bass amps need power.

After post edit: the 14/3 power cords I have were labeled as 15 A, but have a 20 A NEMA 5-20P wall plug with the horizontal prong.
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W7THUQ/r..._title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Charlie

Hey Charlie

I agree with you. My first foray into power cord upgrades was using Shunyata's on my at the time T2's. I also noticed a kick in bass slam. Power available for those dynamic surges plays a role.

I think for amps, upgrading to pricier power cords doesn't do as much for sound quality as it does for sources. But getting lower impedance available to amps via power cords of thicker gauge, better copper, whatever, does make a difference in letting the amp get the power it wants when it needs it. You of course have gone the extra mile with your P20! That's still on my "someday" list.

Rick