Art / Rick, I think your concerns are genuine. You'll have to wait on whatever GET support and/or the Moderator indicate.

ArthurDaniels wrote: OK - let's clarify some basic "points" (pun intended) about the GE Triton Spikes.

1. I understand that the spikes are standard 1/4 x 20 threaded studs. Please advise if that dimension is not correct.

2. Assuming 1/4 x 20 is correct, then I presume that the spikes could be replaced by any device which has a standard 1/4 x 20 male thread. Please advise if my presumption is incorrect.

Assuming 1 and 2 above are correct, I ask GE to provide some data from their research with regard to spike design. Specifically, I am asking for the following information:

1. Is there a preferred length for the spike with regard to elevating the speaker from a hard surface?

2. Was this preferred length chosen because of acoustical improvement, or was the length chosen in order to provide stability when the speaker sits on a carpet or rug?

3. If the speaker is sitting on a hard surface, what is the preferred length for acoustical improvement, while also considering stability?

All of these questions relate to my plan to consider replacing the GE spikes with some sort of flat-surface "foot" mounted with a 1/4 x 20 short carriage bolt. I have not yet chosen the actual hardware parts or their source(s), so I would very much appreciate knowing what GE recommends as to best length or other considerations when the Tritons are sitting on a hard surface.

Thanks,

Art

Hi Art,

1) Correct

2) Correct, although if they are threaded in too far they will break through the top of the base (the included spikes have the correct amount of thread to prevent this)

3) Any air space under the speaker is fine, the included spikes leave the speaker at a good height

We include the rubber feet as an option for a no-spike installation. Spikes on hard surfaces are fine (good, actually) and a disc under tis suggested to protect the floor. We include discs with the Triton One and Reference, and there are aftermarket ones ($20 on Amazon) that can be used with any spikes (including the other Triton models).

rjohn79395 wrote: I've got wood floors that the T1's and T2's sit on (area carpets in front).

I've been using the rubber feet.. easy to move around, can see the clearance underneath.

About to install T Ref's. Moderator Dude, what am I missing? If you were me, would you try elevating said speakers more, and what would you recommend to do that?

Thanks!

Rick

Hi Rick,

No need to elevate further, the rubber feet provide good spacing. MOST people use the rubber feet for exactly the reasons you describe. The spikes will sound better (small, but audible), I'd consider using the spikes and pads with your T Refs.

If you use the locking nuts, as instructed in the manual, the inserts in the base will not get damaged under some lateral stress.

Putting the discs under the spikes can be accomplished by one person, two is certainly easier of course.

Contact your dealer, they can get you a replacement base at n/c since yours obviously came with a loose insert.

Moderator wrote:

rjohn79395 wrote: I've got wood floors that the T1's and T2's sit on (area carpets in front).

I've been using the rubber feet.. easy to move around, can see the clearance underneath.

About to install T Ref's. Moderator Dude, what am I missing? If you were me, would you try elevating said speakers more, and what would you recommend to do that?

Thanks!

Rick

Hi Rick,

No need to elevate further, the rubber feet provide good spacing. MOST people use the rubber feet for exactly the reasons you describe. The spikes will sound better (small, but audible), I'd consider using the spikes and pads with your T Refs.

Thanks!

With all the give and take about lateral stress when moving spiked speakers, would I be better off doing all the original fine tuning of position for the Ref's with rubber feet on, and then installl the spikes/pads, or can I gently slide spike/pads on the wood floors while adjusting and testing positions? Wood floors are fairly easy to slide things on.....

Thanks again!

Rick

As suggested in the manual, do all your position fine tuning without the spikes on. When you have selected the best spot, put on the spikes.