Yes, spiking is preferred. The following is a quote from Sandy's regarding the spikes provided with the Reference.

"At CES we were using Stillpoints. These are rather expensive, but I think worthwhile. The spikes that come with the
speakers are similar to those that come with the Ones, but are made of stainless steel, rather than brass, which works better. "

OK - let's clarify some basic "points" (pun intended) about the GE Triton Spikes.

1. I understand that the spikes are standard 1/4 x 20 threaded studs. Please advise if that dimension is not correct.

2. Assuming 1/4 x 20 is correct, then I presume that the spikes could be replaced by any device which has a standard 1/4 x 20 male thread. Please advise if my presumption is incorrect.

Assuming 1 and 2 above are correct, I ask GE to provide some data from their research with regard to spike design. Specifically, I am asking for the following information:

1. Is there a preferred length for the spike with regard to elevating the speaker from a hard surface?

2. Was this preferred length chosen because of acoustical improvement, or was the length chosen in order to provide stability when the speaker sits on a carpet or rug?

3. If the speaker is sitting on a hard surface, what is the preferred length for acoustical improvement, while also considering stability?

All of these questions relate to my plan to consider replacing the GE spikes with some sort of flat-surface "foot" mounted with a 1/4 x 20 short carriage bolt. I have not yet chosen the actual hardware parts or their source(s), so I would very much appreciate knowing what GE recommends as to best length or other considerations when the Tritons are sitting on a hard surface.

Thanks,

Art

ArthurDaniels wrote: OK - let's clarify some basic "points" (pun intended) about the GE Triton Spikes.

1. I understand that the spikes are standard 1/4 x 20 threaded studs. Please advise if that dimension is not correct.

2. Assuming 1/4 x 20 is correct, then I presume that the spikes could be replaced by any device which has a standard 1/4 x 20 male thread. Please advise if my presumption is incorrect.

Assuming 1 and 2 above are correct, I ask GE to provide some data from their research with regard to spike design. Specifically, I am asking for the following information:

1. Is there a preferred length for the spike with regard to elevating the speaker from a hard surface?

2. Was this preferred length chosen because of acoustical improvement, or was the length chosen in order to provide stability when the speaker sits on a carpet or rug?

3. If the speaker is sitting on a hard surface, what is the preferred length for acoustical improvement, while also considering stability?

All of these questions relate to my plan to consider replacing the GE spikes with some sort of flat-surface "foot" mounted with a 1/4 x 20 short carriage bolt. I have not yet chosen the actual hardware parts or their source(s), so I would very much appreciate knowing what GE recommends as to best length or other considerations when the Tritons are sitting on a hard surface.

Thanks,

Art

Art, I like your questions and of course, they are meant for the Moderator to answer. I'm curious though as to something. Besides the Herbie's Gliders herbiesaudiolab.net/spkrfeet.htm which for good reason (cost) you prefer to not opt for, why not use the spikes AND disks provided by GET? Seems like the lowest cost alternative and the disks are meant for hard wood flooring or any surface you do not wish to damage. They look nice too, IMO.

Hi GDHAL,

Very Good Question!

I had forgotten about the discs and, for some reason, when I installed the spikes on my Triton Ones, I did not also install the discs.

However, my Triton Sevens came with both spikes and rubber feet, but no discs. I checked the Sevens manual and discs are not mentioned, as they are in the Ones manual.

I will install the discs under my Ones to see what I think.

I will also send a separate request to GE to discuss the spikes and discs option for my Sevens. Perhaps GE will send me a set of discs for my Sevens - or a set of spikes and discs if they must be matched. I believe the studs for the Sevens are also 1/4 x 20, like the Ones.

Thanks for an excellent suggestion. I shall report results.

Best,

Art

I've got wood floors that the T1's and T2's sit on (area carpets in front).

I've been using the rubber feet.. easy to move around, can see the clearance underneath.

About to install T Ref's. Moderator Dude, what am I missing? If you were me, would you try elevating said speakers more, and what would you recommend to do that?

Thanks!

Rick

Hi Again GDHAL,

Yesterday, a neighbor helped me install the discs on to the spikes on my Triton Ones. I tilted the speakers slightly while he lay on the floor and worked a disc on to each spike. His comments about the installation process indicated that the discs would not stay on the spikes, unless I just barely raised an edge of the speaker, allowing him to position a disc directly under each spike so that, when I lowered the speaker, the spike would engage the disc and hold it in place. Using this approach, we were able to get all discs installed on to the spikes on both speakers.

During the installation process, he reported that several of the spikes were loose. He attempted to tighten one of the loose spikes, but the spike just rotated without tightening - indicating that the spike holder in the base of the speaker was loose. I believe it is likely that the lateral stress encountered during my previous movements of the speakers has caused some of the spike holders to become loose in the base.

With the discs installed, the speakers do slide much more easily on the tile floor. My Triton Sevens came with spikes, but no spike discs. Discs are not mentioned in the Sevens manual. I sent an email to GE support, asking about adding discs to the spikes on my Sevens and if GE could make a set of discs available for my Sevens. I am awaiting GE's reply.

Given our experience yesterday with adding the discs, I am wondering if it is possible to add the discs to the spikes before installing the spikes to the base of the speakers. If the discs will not stay on the spikes, then the only way to install the discs would be to use the method we used, which would require two people and which would have to be done after the spikes are installed and the speakers are upright.

I am concerned about the discovery of loose spikes, but at this time I am not going attempt any repairs. So long as the discs stay on the spikes and so long as the speakers will slide easily across my tile floor and so long as each spike remains in place, then I will leave well enough alone.

My experience with installing these discs has reinforced my belief that GE would do well to re-examine the design of this mounting system. As I said in an earlier post, this little "spike thing" has the potential to become an issue which unnecessarily detracts from the overall positive GE experience.

Best,

Art