Eheh enjoying the good life hey?

Regarding the speaker cable, I figured you'd ask
The cable has a red line that identifies the (+).
I just didn't catch it in the photo. Rest assured, all the wiring is correct.
I triple checked every single one (speakers and receiver).
At this point I've given up... Will try to get the replacement amps and see from there...
I'm really hoping the issue is related to the amp plates because, if it isn't, I won't know what else to do........

I too just replaced the 2nd bad amp on my original Triton 2’s last night. They were purchased in 2015 and in 2016 an amp blew that I replaced. Well, it happened again last week but I don’t know if it’s the same speaker or the other. Lord knows between Chet and the work to do it’s an easy DIY job but I do worry about what’s going on here, especially as I’m hoping to upgrade to the Ones or Reference in the next year or two. Both speakers are plugged into decent mid-grade surge protectors but in Florida there can be days where the power might drop out for a moment 5x in 3 minutes which can’t be good. On really bad days or vacation everything gets unplugged. Phases are correct, decent interconnects, just bummed about blowing amps. Was considering something like an AudioQuest PowerQuest surge protector with line conditioning to see if it might help, or maybe an UPS is a better answer?

HighPercentile wrote:

I too just replaced the 2nd bad amp on my original Triton 2’s last night. They were purchased in 2015 and in 2016 an amp blew that I replaced. Well, it happened again last week but I don’t know if it’s the same speaker or the other. Lord knows between Chet and the work to do it’s an easy DIY job but I do worry about what’s going on here, especially as I’m hoping to upgrade to the Ones or Reference in the next year or two. Both speakers are plugged into decent mid-grade surge protectors but in Florida there can be days where the power might drop out for a moment 5x in 3 minutes which can’t be good. On really bad days or vacation everything gets unplugged. Phases are correct, decent interconnects, just bummed about blowing amps. Was considering something like an AudioQuest PowerQuest surge protector with line conditioning to see if it might help, or maybe an UPS is a better answer?

Hello HighPercentile.

It saddens me when a person's audio gear goes awry. I know I don't feel right when/if I have any issue. It is kind of strange that you should experience another blown amp issue. I've had the Triton One's and now the Reference. I've never had an amp issue, but did have a blown tweeter(s) issue. So I can relate, and feel your pain.

To your point about power line conditioning with surge protection, I might suggest you also consider a third kind of power management strategy. I use a Panamax MR4300. I can vouch for its accuracy. It uses a technology "Protect or Disconnect
Automatic Voltage Monitoring L-N, L-G, N-G Protection Modes ,Thermal Fusing" That is from their site:
www.panamax.com/product/mr4300-power-management/

Basically what it does is give you line conditioning, surge protection, plus under/over voltage protection. The under/over voltage protection is important. I can get the specs and let you know the precise cutoff points. I've talked to their tech support a few times and have additional data above and beyond their public data. Anyway, under voltage (should that happen or be the case in your situation) - is essentially a "brown out" condition, which is very harmful to all electronics (not just your speakers but your amp, preamp, whatever.)

Good thing though, as you state, GE support (Chet) is top of the line and the replacement is DIY.

I hope it works out for you.

Best.

Hal

GDHAL wrote:

HighPercentile wrote:

I too just replaced the 2nd bad amp on my original Triton 2’s last night. They were purchased in 2015 and in 2016 an amp blew that I replaced. Well, it happened again last week but I don’t know if it’s the same speaker or the other. Lord knows between Chet and the work to do it’s an easy DIY job but I do worry about what’s going on here, especially as I’m hoping to upgrade to the Ones or Reference in the next year or two. Both speakers are plugged into decent mid-grade surge protectors but in Florida there can be days where the power might drop out for a moment 5x in 3 minutes which can’t be good. On really bad days or vacation everything gets unplugged. Phases are correct, decent interconnects, just bummed about blowing amps. Was considering something like an AudioQuest PowerQuest surge protector with line conditioning to see if it might help, or maybe an UPS is a better answer?

Hello HighPercentile.

It saddens me when a person's audio gear goes awry. I know I don't feel right when/if I have any issue. It is kind of strange that you should experience another blown amp issue. I've had the Triton One's and now the Reference. I've never had an amp issue, but did have a blown tweeter(s) issue. So I can relate, and feel your pain.

To your point about power line conditioning with surge protection, I might suggest you also consider a third kind of power management strategy. I use a Panamax MR4300. I can vouch for its accuracy. It uses a technology "Protect or Disconnect
Automatic Voltage Monitoring L-N, L-G, N-G Protection Modes ,Thermal Fusing" That is from their site:
www.panamax.com/product/mr4300-power-management/

Basically what it does is give you line conditioning, surge protection, plus under/over voltage protection. The under/over voltage protection is important. I can get the specs and let you know the precise cutoff points. I've talked to their tech support a few times and have additional data above and beyond their public data. Anyway, under voltage (should that happen or be the case in your situation) - is essentially a "brown out" condition, which is very harmful to all electronics (not just your speakers but your amp, preamp, whatever.)

Good thing though, as you state, GE support (Chet) is top of the line and the replacement is DIY.

I hope it works out for you.

Best.

Hal

I appreciate the advice, it’s only about $208 on Amazon right now. I assume the “High Current” outlets would be for the Triton’s and my receiver/amp? While dinky things like my Apple TV/Oppo/Sony TV go in the standard outlets?

Hello again, HighPercentile.

That would be correct. The “High Current” outlets would be for the Triton’s and your receiver/amp? Other items like your Apple TV/Oppo/Sony TV would be plugged into the standard (non-high current) outlets.

Another tip in this regard. However, if you have televisions plugged in you may not want to do this. The Triton towers have a standby mode when not in use but connected to power. Yes, I know they draw extremely low wattage when in standby so this isn't about saving electrical cost. My usage habits are such that I'll listen for many hours (10?) in a single session, and when I'm finished listening I wait until the Tritons go out of standby (about 25 minutes after no music has been sent to them) and then I power them down completely.

I doubt this, but it is conceivable that leaving the amplifiers in the Triton powered on all the time - even if just in standby - somehow contributes in a negative way to their longevity. I'm old school, and I studied electronics in high school. There are two camps of folks here. Others will state that electronics should always be left on (standby or even fully on). Others, like myself, believe it is best for the health of the components to turn off electronics when not in use. Of course, you have to be realistic. If your equipment is on, and then you decide to go to the grocery store and you know you'll be an hour, but intend to listen again when you return, then leave the equipment on. I'm suggesting to turn it off when there's an extended period of non listening time. Like 12+ hours.

The Panamax lets you do that with the convenience of a front panel switch. Now here's the rub. If you have a smart television, some of them have a pixel refresh function that is engaged when the television is powered off, but is still receiving power (in standby). So you may not want to deny all of your electronics power. In those circumstances, I would plug the television into a separate non switched outlet which also has line conditioning and perhaps surge protection. Or, a second Panamax. One that you use for components you want to switch off and the other for components that always require power and you want to leave switched in.

This is just my strategy. No right or wrong here as there are different school's of thought. But in my case, I do not leave my Triton's in a standby mode for hours on end.

Best.

Hal

Greetings all—I wanted to share some correspondence from Chet regarding blown Triton 2 amplifiers—hope it helps.


From Me to Chet—"Swapped the amps last night and all seems to be well…..I’m only saddened that either this speaker has blown an amp twice now or that each speaker has now blown an amp. Has this been a common issue? (Original Triton 2’s). Also just fyi there was no middle detent to be felt on the new volume knob, dunno if that’s intentional or manufacturing.”

Part of Chet’s reply to me—"Thanks for the update. Our newer volume controls (or potentiometers) do not have a center position detent . There’s really no performance advantage one way or another. It’s just a design change.
The original Triton Two amplifiers failed more than they should have….When our amplifier technician (Curt Hief) reconditions our replacement Triton Two amplifiers, they’re actually improved to be more reliable than the original production units."