file Triton towers with built-in amps prone to failure...?

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charliehatch Posted 1 year 10 months ago
#31382
One last comment, and then I'll shut up.

Just to cover all the possible bases, and please don't take this personally, are you sure you turned UP the amplifier gains (all the way clockwise) instead of turning them down? Turning them down would produce just what you're seeing in the data.

Sorry for the stupid question...

Charlie
Digital source > multiple boxes and cables that are always changing > Triton Reference speakers

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GDHAL Posted 1 year 10 months ago
#31383

One last comment, and then I'll shut up.
Charlie

I suppose I too can offer one last recommendation of things to check before shutting up. :) Some of these things are far reaching, but we've already covered all of the basics so now we're starting to get into the not so basics.

1 - check polarity of your speaker cables (+ to ,+, - to -) and ensure this is correct.

2 - ensure your speaker cable +/- wires are next to each other (running side by side to each other). You don't want a single wire running to your + terminal and and - wire to the same speaker separated by a foot, etc. They should be right next to each other only separated by the cables shielding/ insulation. And, the cable should be "twisted".

3 - check if any of your equipment has a *phase inversion* feature. Many DACs and some home theater receivers have this type of feature. If you do have a phase inversion feature, toggle it the opposite way and then take the readings.

Best.

Hal
Golden Ear Triton Reference (pair), Musical Fidelity M6si, Schiit Yggdrasil-OG-B, Oppo UDP-205, Emotiva ERC-3, LG OLED65C9PUA, Salamander Synergy Triple Unit SL20, Audeze LCD-X, GIK acoustic paneling
halr.x10.mx/TritonReference.htm ; halr.x10.mx/other.html

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EdiMC Posted 1 year 10 months ago
Last edit: 1 year 10 months ago by EdiMC. info_outline
#31384

One last comment, and then I'll shut up.

Just to cover all the possible bases, and please don't take this personally, are you sure you turned UP the amplifier gains (all the way clockwise) instead of turning them down? Turning them down would produce just what you're seeing in the data.

Sorry for the stupid question...

Charlie
No need to be sorry! Sometimes we're so focused on more complex questions that we forget to cover the basics ;)
Yes, I double checked.
And what I realized in the process is that, when I turn the gain up from 0 to 12 o'clock, it seems to have almost no effect on the sound.
I only start to notice some increase in bass output from 12 o'clock forward.
I would say that, set to max, I'm getting now more or less the same output as I did before at 12 o'clock...

One last comment, and then I'll shut up.
Charlie

I suppose I too can offer one last recommendation of things to check before shutting up. :) Some of these things are far reaching, but we've already covered all of the basics so now we're starting to get into the not so basics.

1 - check polarity of your speaker cables (+ to ,+, - to -) and ensure this is correct.

2 - ensure your speaker cable +/- wires are next to each other (running side by side to each other). You don't want a single wire running to your + terminal and and - wire to the same speaker separated by a foot, etc. They should be right next to each other only separated by the cables shielding/ insulation. And, the cable should be "twisted".

3 - check if any of your equipment has a *phase inversion* feature. Many DACs and some home theater receivers have this type of feature. If you do have a phase inversion feature, toggle it the opposite way and then take the readings.

Best.

Hal

Hey Hal! Keep'em coming! ;)


Re-doing all the connections (speakers and receiver) was one of my first steps ;)

I don't think the Anthem MRX 720 has that phase inversion option... not that I'm aware of...

Thanks!

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GDHAL Posted 1 year 10 months ago
#31385
[quote="EdiMC post=31384 userid=13834"......I don't think the Anthem MRX 720 has that phase inversion option... not that I'm aware of...

Thanks![/quote]

Perhaps it doesn't. This may prove useful as it somewhat related to the phase inversion I'm referring to.

www.avsforum.com/threads/owners-thread-f...ge-266#post-56211862
Golden Ear Triton Reference (pair), Musical Fidelity M6si, Schiit Yggdrasil-OG-B, Oppo UDP-205, Emotiva ERC-3, LG OLED65C9PUA, Salamander Synergy Triple Unit SL20, Audeze LCD-X, GIK acoustic paneling
halr.x10.mx/TritonReference.htm ; halr.x10.mx/other.html

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GDHAL Posted 1 year 10 months ago
Last edit: 1 year 10 months ago by GDHAL. info_outline
#31386
Somehow this post was duplicative of my previous post and I'm not able to delete it.

Apologies. I figured I'd edit it. ;)

I'll edit it again if I think of something else to try ..

EDIT

Okay, @EdiMC.

I note you have T3.

I did think of something else you could try. This is grasping at straws, but it's perfectly safe to do, and then again has very much to do with correct phasing which could (likely not though) be causing your problem.

Try reversing the leads on your speaker or your amp whichever is easier for you... in other words, wire the amp plus + to minus - on the speakers to intentionally put them what should be out of phase. You're probably better off doing one speaker at a time, but you could do both at a time as well. Check your results at that point.

Just so you know, if your speakers are out of phase, this could cause, among other things, the woofers to pull inward while making a bass sound as opposed to pressing outward. And in fact you're two speakers can be in and out of phase with one another. Again this is rather unlikely and it's grasping at straws, but it's just something else for you to check if you're in a troubleshooting mode. Google audio speaker phasing.
Golden Ear Triton Reference (pair), Musical Fidelity M6si, Schiit Yggdrasil-OG-B, Oppo UDP-205, Emotiva ERC-3, LG OLED65C9PUA, Salamander Synergy Triple Unit SL20, Audeze LCD-X, GIK acoustic paneling
halr.x10.mx/TritonReference.htm ; halr.x10.mx/other.html

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GDHAL Posted 1 year 10 months ago
#31388

One last comment, and then I'll shut up.

Just to cover all the possible bases, and please don't take this personally, are you sure you turned UP the amplifier gains (all the way clockwise) instead of turning them down? Turning them down would produce just what you're seeing in the data.

Sorry for the stupid question...

Charlie
No need to be sorry! Sometimes we're so focused on more complex questions that we forget to cover the basics ;)
Yes, I double checked.
And what I realized in the process is that, when I turn the gain up from 0 to 12 o'clock, it seems to have almost no effect on the sound.
I only start to notice some increase in bass output from 12 o'clock forward.
I would say that, set to max, I'm getting now more or less the same output as I did before at 12 o'clock...

One last comment, and then I'll shut up.
Charlie

I suppose I too can offer one last recommendation of things to check before shutting up. :) Some of these things are far reaching, but we've already covered all of the basics so now we're starting to get into the not so basics.

1 - check polarity of your speaker cables (+ to ,+, - to -) and ensure this is correct.

2 - ensure your speaker cable +/- wires are next to each other (running side by side to each other). You don't want a single wire running to your + terminal and and - wire to the same speaker separated by a foot, etc. They should be right next to each other only separated by the cables shielding/ insulation. And, the cable should be "twisted".

3 - check if any of your equipment has a *phase inversion* feature. Many DACs and some home theater receivers have this type of feature. If you do have a phase inversion feature, toggle it the opposite way and then take the readings.

Best.

Hal

Hey Hal! Keep'em coming! ;)


Re-doing all the connections (speakers and receiver) was one of my first steps ;)

I don't think the Anthem MRX 720 has that phase inversion option... not that I'm aware of...

Thanks!

Okay, EdiMC, I'll Keep'em coming! ;)

Forgive me, as I've had a few adult beverages and I'm blasting (80db) some killer Elvis Costello as I write this. I write now only because the thought comes to my mind now...

Goes back to my question (s) regarding phasing ....AND the photo you posted of your speaker wire connectivity.

Based on the picture you posted it's not clear to me which wire would be considered positive and which one would be considered negative. In my experience, speaker wire is denoted by different color, or markings/text of some kind on the cable, to help the user definitively know polarity.... that the plus and minus on the speaker is equivalent to the plus and minus on the amp. I see no evidence on the photo that you posted that you're able to discern the speaker wire at the amp side from the speaker wire at the speaker side.

This is not to say that you've necessarily done anything incorrect or that it's wired incorrectly, but it is to say that you really ought to double check the phasing and make sure you have correct polarity from amp to speaker.

Best.

Hal
Golden Ear Triton Reference (pair), Musical Fidelity M6si, Schiit Yggdrasil-OG-B, Oppo UDP-205, Emotiva ERC-3, LG OLED65C9PUA, Salamander Synergy Triple Unit SL20, Audeze LCD-X, GIK acoustic paneling
halr.x10.mx/TritonReference.htm ; halr.x10.mx/other.html

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