- home Forum
- arrow_forward
- Getting Started
- arrow_forward
- Basic Hookup and Wiring Questions
- arrow_forward
- Plate amp failure on Triton Two
Plate amp failure on Triton Two
- Offline school
- New Member
- Posts: 11
- Thank you received: 10
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
Moderator wrote: I also asked for a quick scan of our repair records and no dealer has had four repeats in the history of our record keeping, so, if service was done four times it did not happen with GoldenEar's involvement.
Agreed also with a call to the office (Sandy will probably talk with him) or an email to support. If emailing support, best to ask questions rather than demand support.
I appreciate all assistance by every one. I will indeed unplug from power conditioner but I will have to go through a power strip as there is only one wall outlet. I have tried a ground tester and it gives the green light all good on every socket in my house.
Your statement above however kept me up half the night. I have never been called a liar on a public forum by a manufacturer. I definitely do not appreciate this. I was so upset I could not sleep.
Also, I never demanded support here. I emailed support and a solution was worked out. My questions here are about the future when they fail again. I was brain storming on an alternative solution. I have learned that because of the DSP and active cross over I cant supply an external amp. ok. What I am now concerned about is whether the non subwoofer parts use active or passive crossover. I do get sound with the AC cord unplugged from the speaker but am I bypassing the XO and possible damaging the tweeter for example because there is no XO with out power? I at least need to know this part. Worst case in the future is: I leave them unplugged and purchase one or two high end subs and just use the passive components (mid/tweeters). This plan all depends on whether there is a passive XO or not.
Can someone technical respond on this. and no, I am NOT playing a game to get "trade secrets". In fact I do not play games. And I am still upset by your comments above. I know you can easily remove my posts or edit my comments and ban me to make me go away. But I will take a chance and just be truthfull about how I feel. Thanks to everyone else who has offered some suggestions. I am as baffled and frustrated as any of you would be. trust me..... I have reccomended the Goldenears to everyone I know in the past and bragged on them.
Thanks,
Anthony
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Offline school
- New Member
- Posts: 11
- Thank you received: 10
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
Does anyone use any surge suppression, power conditioning on their powered Triton speakers or subs ? Is it recommended or discouraged ?
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Offline
- Moderator
- Posts: 3350
- Thank you received: 3419
- Karma: 19
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
Yes, there is a passive crossover and you are not hurting anything by driving the speaker without the ac cord plugged in (sorry, if you asked that before and we missed it).
We are baffled too, as are other readers I would guess. One of our regular contributors suggested eliminating the power conditioner, a good idea based on it being an unknown. (If the problems persist, I guess that would eliminate that as the possible issue.) And no problem using a power strip as long as it is rated for the necessary current demands.
We aren't going anywhere and will continue to service your speakers under warranty for any electronics failures. It is true that anything that plugs in the wall is subject to some percentage of failure, but it would appear you've used up the odds for MANY years to come. In addition, we have asked support to track the return of your failed electronics so it can be sent to our engineers in Canada for evaluation. If the failure appears to be related to an ac power issue we can let you know so you can do further investigation locally.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Offline school
- New Member
- Posts: 11
- Thank you received: 10
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
I watched on two separate occasions while the new amp/dsp units were installed. My original amps had serial numbers on them but the replacements do not have a serial. There is just a white space where the serial should be. Honestly I do not know what my original serials were.
Both speakers have replacement amps and no serials now.
Just to be clear, I feel that Goldenear and my dealer have bent over backwards to make this product work and provide me with optimum service. I just need for these to last because I feel I have already worn out my welcome on replacements.
Today I am buying the new amp unit. It will be shipped to me and with former dealer assistance will be installed. the defective parts will be returned for a full refund with a return shipping label. Thanks yet again. I would like the feedback from an analysis on the defective parts to see if it can help me understand more about electricity and how to protect my equipment which I have a lot invested.
If they burn out again, I will likely be too embarrassed to ask for more support and will probably just buy a pair of external subs.
Thanks.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Offline
- Moderator
- Posts: 3350
- Thank you received: 3419
- Karma: 19
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Offline
- Platinum Member
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
The premise is that the plate amp has failed. What does "failed" mean exactly?
Prior to Golden Ear Tritons I had a pair of JBLS412P speakers. They too had a plate amp. The difference as compared to GET plate amp is that (a) there was an on/off switch and (b) an auto/on switch. What happened with one speaker is that when left in auto, when the amp shut down because no music was present, it wouldn’t turn back on again unless I manually switched it off and then back on.
Not sure that condition constitutes a failure but obviously I would have preferred if I didn’t have to do that. In your case ajowers, I take the failure to mean the amp will not turn on, but again, please clarify.
I also would tend to agree with T Cobe in that if in fact you have experienced as many as three failures, there is likely some cause other than GET part quality. Did all three failures exhibit the same symptom? I think you need to understand the cause prior to answering your question/concern about future endeavors, planning and so forth.
To your other question about power conditioning, I use power conditioning and am rather pleased with the results. Specifically, I use the following:
20 Amp dedicated outlet and breaker >>> Emotiva CMX-2 >>> Panamax MR-4300 >>> GET Triton One’s (and other A/V equipment).
Lastly, and I mentioned this quite a while back now in another thread on this forum, the Triton’s have a blue light which flashes (25 times if memory serves) when the unit is first powered on. I believe an irregular pattern would or could be indicative of a problem. Have you noticed the flashing pattern of the blue light and are they the same in all cases?
halr.x10.mx/TritonReference.htm ; halr.x10.mx/other.html
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- home Forum
- arrow_forward
- Getting Started
- arrow_forward
- Basic Hookup and Wiring Questions
- arrow_forward
- Plate amp failure on Triton Two
-
- WoW Classic Season of Discovery Phase 6: What You ...
- In Support / Triton Series
- by RyujiSaeki
- 1 hour 35 minutes ago
-
- CoD: Black Ops 6 Bot Lobby/Redemption Code/Boostin...
- In Support / Triton Series
- by RyujiSaeki
- 1 hour 44 minutes ago
-
- Question Regarding SuperCinema 3D Array XL Center ...
- In Support / SuperCinema 3D Array
- by Moderator
- 1 day 16 hours ago
-
- Rumbling left speaker.
- In Write Your Own Review / Triton Series
- by Moderator
- 1 day 19 hours ago
-
- Triton Reference
- In Write Your Own Review / Triton Series
- by Moderator
- 2 days 20 hours ago