Hang in there, Anthony!

Forum members, and Goldenear, really want to help you! There've been so many cases where Goldenear has gone above and beyond, that I truly believe they will help you as long as it takes to get things right. I don't know of any other company where the founder (Sandy) is so ready to come to the phone and help. Or where warranties got extended so readily.

I don't know what is happening with your T2 plate amps (I have had zero problems with mine), but I can't imagine a company more willing to go the extra mile. Something's not right, and I doubt there is a single person at Goldenear not willing to help, including Sandy!

Keep us posted. You deserve speakers that work.

Rick

No problems with my T 2s at all, and I do play them all the time on a power conditioner. (I lather, rinse, repeat, sorry, I could not resist)
Wishing you all the best,
God Bless,
Wayne

Anthony,

I run my T1s directly into the wall. When lightning is in the area, I typically unplug them along with the rest of my theater gear. I tried running surge suppressor originally but opted to remove them. I didn't spend a significant amount of money on anything fancy. I had a Furman unit for a time but have moved it to my theater gear as it made no audible improvement in my front end.

I ran an auxiliary panel to power my theater and have two 20-amp outlets feeding my 2-channel system at the front of my theater. The original wiring to the home didn't seem beefy enough for my needs. Now I'm running my pre-amp, CD player, two class A/AB monoblock amps and my T1s on the two dedicated outlets. Since they are dedicated lines, I have no dimmers, appliances, or anything else that would be causing issues. Things are clean and noise free. Having an outlet directly behind my T1s have allowed me to run a 1 meter power cord to keep things tidy. It also kept the cost of aftermarket power cables down since the outlets are so close to all of my gear.

There are many ways to crack the same nut. I advised removing the conditioner here because it seems like a plausible cause of the repeated plate amps. It may help to know the make and model of power conditioner we're talking about. Please let us know what you hear from GET and if you are able to isolate the cause. Good luck!

Cheers,

T Cobe

Thanks to everyone for all the replies. My internet at home was out 2 days. finally fixed today. withdrawals subsiding.

I got a call from Sandy with suggestions. I decided to experiment over the period when my internet was out. I have no kids. I have no cats.

What does "fail" mean ? Well in my case it has two meanings based on experiences.

a. Unit stops producing power (no bass at all, no green light)
b. Unit begins to make random popping/crunching noises (like claws on cardboard)

Usually (a) is preceded by (b). In the past I have only experienced one speaker failure not two at a time. No events were immediately preceded by thunderstorm or anything like this. I have used the speaker system on two separate breaker/circuits and had the issues.

The current event is at stage (b) but still produces power. WE have had little rain and no thunderstorms for many weeks.

What I have done in the last two days.

1. Remove the Power conditioner and replace with my PS Audio Power Sonic from other room while plugging left channel speaker directly into outlet
2. Unplug Wifi extender
3. Turn off all lights with dimmers
4. Power each device up in sequence to determine when I get "green lights" on plate amps
5. Look for error codes as flashing lights on plate amps
6. run system cold and playing all day while I am at the office to see if heating up makes any difference

Results. Power devices one at a time: Amp. DAC. TV. Computer. Press Play on an audio track.

Only after pressing play do the amps detect output and green lights come on. It takes about 2 or 3 seconds then both amps power on and I get solid green lights on both channels. I always get solid green lights under normal conditions. No error codes/flashing.

If I unplug the AC from left channel after it is green then plug AC back in, I get a flashing green light for 30 seconds at about 1 second intervals. Then it becomes solid.

After making all above changes. I still get the noise and it makes no difference if cold or hot. The noise happens whether music is playing or not. The noise happens even if my banana plugs are removed from the speaker.

GET is already going to replace me left channel AMP at no cost to me. They will ship me one and I will replace it and return the bad parts.

I talked to a friend who is in construction and he feels that I could be overloading this particular circuit. I do not know how to know.

The circuit is 15 amps I believe (I will verify).

This circuit is the bed room with:

• overhead can lights with dimmer - incandescent - normally off
• two table lamps florescent bulbs - normally 1 on
• clock radio
• three computers and 3 LCD/LED monitors - ON
• Laser Printer - off
• Stereo: Rogue Audio Sphyinx, Rega DAC, Computer with SSD/fanless PS - all ON
• 55" LED TV - ON

yes, thats 4 computers .... Al computers are on wired ethernet connections. I found that a wifi adaptor close to my DAC induced noise so I ran cat 6 cables and there is a gigabit switch in the bedroom providing connectivity to the wall where there is an inbuilt ethernet cable going to a different room with cable modem and some additional servers. I am a software engineer and sort of have a home office too.

Can anyone who knows a lot about electricity tell me if the failures can be related to a power issue in my house.

Note: I have used the speaker system on two separate breaker/circuits and had the issues. I moved them from my main stereo in living room thinking to eliminate or isolate some power issue by bringing them into bedroom after the last failure. This does not seem to make any difference now either, unless damage was done then took months for it to become audible.

Thats all I know to relate about this.

Oh one more item: If I unplug the AC on left channel speaker, the noise goes away. It is not a trapped rodent.

The power conditioner I have begun to use after the failures started happening as a preventative measure is:
APC H15

Can someone let Sandy know to please read this post as it has the answers to various tests he was interested in me performing and gathering the results in an email to him. I decided to just post it all up here.

Thanks,
Anthony

ajowers, in my OPINION, based on the "b then a" symptom you are stating, the problem could be with the bass control. It's likely a simple potentiometer and that can be a weak point. Not from a GET perspective mind you, but in whatever electronics they are used. Even so, this wouldn't explain why you have experienced so many failures.

Just for the heck of it, if the crackling noise problem happens again can you rapidly move the bass control clockwise/counter-clockwise and then return to the center position. I have a suspicion that could remedy that situation.

Sorry you are experiencing less than perfection with your Triton's.

I had a period where there was a lot of noise I rapidly rotated the volume knob from 0 to max then slowly. It had no affect on the noise.