Certainly NOT the only one to have this problem! I have total amp plate failure in one speaker, and intermittent failure to turn on in the other. Yes, the speakers will operate with no AC or with a failed amp, but of course they sound like a cheap bookshelf speaker as part of the system is absent.

Normally, the green light comes on ONLY when an input signal is delivered to the speakers, not when AC is plugged in. The green light remains on for quite a while after the system is shut down, then fades out. I noticed that it blinks when the amp is failing to switch on, and at no other time. In one speaker, I also noticed the poppy / scratching noises prior to the amp going off. One amp stays off permanently now, the other occasionally just quits. I guess I will return them to the dealer (Listen Up) unless there is a contact for proper factory involvement.

These are great sounding speakers, but unless there is a good fix, I will return to non-powered speakers. This is too weird.

@Ears of Gold

Sorry to read of your problem. I'd suggest you contact Golden Ear Support www.goldenear.com/support/serviceandsupport

I would like to give a follow up on my situation. After I "learned" how to maintain my plate amps and settings on my equipment I have had no more issues.

I now know the cause and it was not necessarily GoldenEar's fault.

I am using a computer, usb DAC and software called J River Media Center. The software can digitally control volume by altering the volume values in the digital stream (not uncommon).

My original setup:
- set the "volume" in the software to 50%
- turn the volume on my AMP to a point where it was as loud as I think I would want
- then due to varying digital columes in audio files I am able to raise nd low the volume with my remote without having to turn the knob on the amp.

My DAC, the Audio-GD would occasionally have a glitch, either hardware or driver under Windows and I would hear white noise.

The volume of the white noise was 100%, not 50%. My AMP was already at a volume that was loud for 50%.

I have determined that this white noise and volume level would burn out an amp. this occured over and over until I put 2 and 2 together.

I retired the Audio-GD DAC. I purchased a Schiit Bifrost Multibit and although not as good as the Audio-GD for my bed room system it is ok and never has an audible hiccup.

Thus far I have not had a single issue. I feel like my issue was user error.

I now run with Media center digital volume at 100% (Never change it). I now use the amp remote to change colume up or down.

I still run the speakers through my power conditioner.
Anthony

In contacting GET Customer line, it seems they send out quite a few of these replacements. I've been trying to get hold of the local repair tech, so I'm not sure how this will work out. But, they are definitely defective, as confirmed by customer service, evidenced by the continuously flashing green light. I'll update if this works out, but even if they are repairable, I'm going back to non-amplified speakers!

Ears of Gold wrote: In contacting GET Customer line, it seems they send out quite a few of these replacements. I've been trying to get hold of the local repair tech, so I'm not sure how this will work out. But, they are definitely defective, as confirmed by customer service, evidenced by the continuously flashing green light. I'll update if this works out, but even if they are repairable, I'm going back to non-amplified speakers!

Well duh, we have made 10's of thousands of powered speakers in our 8+ years, some are going to fail. And as pointed out in this thread, not necessarily because of the product. I see nothing useful or informative about your post, which is the purpose of this forum. The typical repair turnaround is less than a week, and if you are the original purchaser it is covered under warranty. What else would a reasonable person want?

Call your dealer and take the speaker to them to be repaired.

I would also like to offer up that replacing the plate amp is not hard and takes 20 minutes at most. Just do not over tighten the any of the screws. I do not recommend using a power tool to put them in. Use a screw driver so you have a tactile feel for the tension.

If you have had a failure I would propose a power surge or possibly too high power input which was my issue. All my drivers tweeters included remained ok.

It would appear that my volume level over drove the plate amp or its DSP I do not know which.

These are excellent speakers and I would give them a chance. Of course i have several systems and use passive technology on my other speakers although I do use a separate powered sub woofer.