file T1: Deep bass rattles driver, but not due to loose screws

  • Anders's Avatar Offline school
  • New Member
  • New Member
    • Posts: 7
    • Thank you received: 3
  • arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
Anders Posted 4 years 8 months ago
#28246
Hi.
I have a pair of Triton Ones, and when I watched a movie the other day I noticed a problem: The driver at the bottom of the front rattles when playing very deep bass, and there's also a strange squealing, "rolling" sound if I can call it that.
Since I read about people with the same problem on this forum, who then found out that it was loose screws, I removed the sock and the grille and tightened all the screws, including the ones on the radiators on the side of the speakers. This didn't change anything.

To eliminate other possiblities I also tried unplugging the affected speaker and only play the other speaker, and that speaker had no problem. I also tried swapping the two speaker cables on the back of my amp (so the left speaker was connected to the amp's right channel and vice versa), and that didn't change anything either.

I have managed to record a sound clip of the rattling (the link below), and if you listen very carefully you can also hear the squealing around 0:16 and especially around 0:21.
It should be noted that I recorded this clip without overloading the microphone and with my amplifier at normal listening volume at 9 o'clock. I rarely turn up my amp past that point (it's a 70 watt amp). The movie the other day was also played at normal volume.
The music I used is the first song from the soundtrack to "Blade Runner 2049", as that has some very deep bass.

I would be happy to hear if you have any suggestions to something I could fix myself.
Thanks!

voca.ro/j03upV6jA0y
The following user(s) said Thank You: rjohn79395

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • anthem's Avatar Offline
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
    • Posts: 4876
    • Thank you received: 9175
    • Karma: 7
  • arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
anthem Posted 4 years 8 months ago
#28247
Does it smell burnt?
D-Sonic m3a-600m Mono > McIntosh MC152 > Primaluna ProLogue Premium Preamp > Oppo UDP205 > Decware ZLC > Triton Reference > Isoacoustics Gaia 2 > Canare 4S11 Speaker Cables > Audience Forte 3, Anticable L3 & Shunyata Venom PC's

Every great performance deserves an Audience!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Anders's Avatar Offline school
  • New Member
  • New Member
    • Posts: 7
    • Thank you received: 3
  • arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
Anders Posted 4 years 8 months ago
Last edit: 4 years 8 months ago by Anders. info_outline
#28251
No, it doesn't smell burnt at all. Also, visually I can't see any difference between this driver and the other ones - it looks completely intact.
The sound clip was recorded with the grille and the base off, so it's not the grill or the base or any of its screws rattling either. But it also rattled the same way when the grill and the base was on.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • rjohn79395's Avatar Offline
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • rjohn79395
    • Posts: 2410
    • Thank you received: 4322
    • Karma: 2
  • arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
rjohn79395 Posted 4 years 8 months ago
Last edit: 4 years 8 months ago by rjohn79395. info_outline
#28252
Hi, Anders

Welcome to the forum.

Good job doing a thorough check of possible issues first! If it's endemic to all bass heavy feeds you play, and only to the one T1, then something is going on in that speaker. I listened to your recording on good headphones, and the SQ does make it a tad difficult to discern the issue, but the amp is definitely working. And you've done a good job checking/tightening possible loose screws. So I'm stumped also.

Moderator Dude may have suggestions. I guess I'd also give their technical assistance number a call, (410) 998 9134. I've called before with set up issues, and they have been most helpful. Heck, Sandy sometimes comes to the phone when he's not busy designing something new or whatever. :)

Please let us know what you find. We'll all learn something.

Rick
5.4.4 HT speakers: T Ref fronts/LFE 1, SuperCenter Ref, T1 surrounds/LFE 2 + SuperSub XXL, HTR 7000 top fronts, HTR 8000 top rears
Zone 2 speakers; 2 Invisa 525's
AVR: Marantz SR 8015
Amp: AT525NC 5 channel
Cable/TiVo, OPPO BDP 105D, Bluesound Node 2i, Apple tv 4K streamer
48" SONY 4K OLED TV

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Anders's Avatar Offline school
  • New Member
  • New Member
    • Posts: 7
    • Thank you received: 3
  • arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
Anders Posted 4 years 8 months ago
#28262
Yes, I had also hoped that the moderator could chime in.
It's only for very deep bass, but always for sounds like that. Since most recordings don't have as deep, earthquake bass as the song in question (or the movie I watched), I can on most music only hear a little bit of rattle if I put my ear next to the driver.

I did notice that the three drivers on the front move a lot when playing this song, whereas the radiators on the side don't move as much. I would have thought it would be the other way around, since it was my understanding that the radiators on the side handled the deepest bass, and the drivers on the front handled higher frequencies.
Since the other speaker is still dressed in its sock I can't say if it's the same for that one, but at least there hasn't been any rattling with that speaker at all.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Bwaze's Avatar Offline
  • New Member
  • New Member
    • Posts: 9
    • Thank you received: 15
  • arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
Bwaze Posted 4 years 8 months ago
#28264
Radiators are passive. From Stereophile review :


GoldenEar Triton One, anechoic response on tweeter axis at 50", averaged across 30° horizontal window and corrected for microphone response, with nearfield responses of midrange units (green), woofers (red), passive radiators (blue), respectively plotted below 300Hz, 500Hz, 300Hz.

The three racetrack-shaped woofers (red trace) cover a much narrower bandpass, peaking between 50 and 70Hz, and the four passive radiators (blue trace) are tuned to a low 25Hz and peak between 20 and 40Hz. Though there is a second peak in the radiators’ output, I suspect that this is crosstalk in the measurement from the woofers’ output. The responses of both the woofers and the radiators roll off below the latter’s tuning frequency with a much faster slope than the usual refl ex 24dB/octave, but the Triton One otherwise offers respectably low bass extension.




I wouldn't expect radiators to move a lot, since they have larger area than woofers.

Since you have removed grille and sock, can you try to move woofer cones by hand and check if their coil touches the magnet at any point? I had an XTZ 99.36 speaker that started producing distortion on very low bas notes, and when moving it by hand I could actually feel it "grind" at something. I removed the speaker, moved the coil as far out as I dared, cleaned it with some light oil and used compressed air around the coil to try to dislodge any dust or other particles in the gap of magnet. And that repaired it completely.
"Pezzer Ritter Wenne Chnecht!"
The following user(s) said Thank You: rjohn79395

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Moderators: Moderator
menu
close
Menu
person_outline
arrow_back
You are here: Home Forum Support Triton Series Triton Towers T1: Deep bass rattles driver, but not due to loose screws