- home Forum
- arrow_forward
- Clubhouse
- arrow_forward
- Write Your Own Review
- arrow_forward
- Triton Series
- arrow_forward
- Triton One Review Part 1- Something New
Triton One Review Part 1- Something New
- Offline school
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2301
- Thank you received: 4381
- Karma: 5
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
T Cobe
Posted
9 years 6 months ago
Thanks, Wyane. As I understand my instruction manual, bi-amping as they call it, is adding the height or width speaker amp channels that are not being used to the L/R main channels and essentially doubling my amplifier power to my T1s. The 4-ohm setting should actually help my receiver handle the low impedance load of the T1. All of this should add up to an easier workload on my Integra and based on the sound and temperature of my receiver with these settings, I think that's been achieved.
The Integra driving my T1s is like me driving a formula one race car, yes I could have a rip roaring good time and go really fast but it would take a professional driver to reach optimal performance. Basically, the T1s deserve better and have a lot of untapped potential, but they sure are a lot of fun and sound extremely good in the setup I have.
Cheers,
T Cobe
The Integra driving my T1s is like me driving a formula one race car, yes I could have a rip roaring good time and go really fast but it would take a professional driver to reach optimal performance. Basically, the T1s deserve better and have a lot of untapped potential, but they sure are a lot of fun and sound extremely good in the setup I have.
Cheers,
T Cobe
Speakers: Triton One L/R, SCXL, Aon 3 Surr/Back, HTR-7000 Height
Pre/Pro/AVR: Anthem AVM 60, Emotiva XSP-1
Amps: Emotiva XPA-5(2), Emotiva XPA-1L (2)
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Emotiva ERC-3, PS4, Pioneer PLX-1000 w/Ortofon 2M Bronze
Display: Epson 6030 UB, Elite Screens 110" Sable
Pre/Pro/AVR: Anthem AVM 60, Emotiva XSP-1
Amps: Emotiva XPA-5(2), Emotiva XPA-1L (2)
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Emotiva ERC-3, PS4, Pioneer PLX-1000 w/Ortofon 2M Bronze
Display: Epson 6030 UB, Elite Screens 110" Sable
The following user(s) said Thank You: WayneWilmeth
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Offline
- Moderator
- Posts: 3350
- Thank you received: 3419
- Karma: 19
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
Moderator
Posted
9 years 6 months ago
T Cobe wrote: Thanks, Wyane. As I understand my instruction manual, bi-amping as they call it, is adding the height or width speaker amp channels that are not being used to the L/R main channels and essentially doubling my amplifier power to my T1s. The 4-ohm setting should actually help my receiver handle the low impedance load of the T1.
Your receiver cannot add together amplifier channels. The bi-amp option allows one to select two unused amplifier channels to bi-amp the main speakers. That means running two sets of speaker wires from the four receiver channels (L/R main plus the two additional) to the bi-amp inputs (four connectors) of your speakers (of course, the Triton speakers do not have bi-amp inputs so you can't do this even if you wanted to with Triton Ones).
Impedance setting is a "try it and see" thing, usually has some performance implications but varies wildly.
The following user(s) said Thank You: WayneWilmeth, T Cobe
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Offline
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4595
- Thank you received: 7040
- Karma: 15
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
WayneWilmeth
Posted
9 years 6 months ago
Thanks Moderator Dude, T Cobe and Art, I believe in the KISS method and some of these ideas are too far out for me.
True bi-amping is for people who want to bypass the internal crossover inside a speaker because they think they are smarter than the engineers who designed and build their speakers. GEt does not allow for that, for VERY good reason!!!!
But I know you know that and are not really trying to do that. However, I would just keep it simple and direct.
I think that is best. But we all feel the need to do more and upgrade, I would do just that, when and IF you have the funds and find an amp/processor and or receiver that is better sounding to you.
Hope this helps,
God Bless,
Wayne
True bi-amping is for people who want to bypass the internal crossover inside a speaker because they think they are smarter than the engineers who designed and build their speakers. GEt does not allow for that, for VERY good reason!!!!
But I know you know that and are not really trying to do that. However, I would just keep it simple and direct.
I think that is best. But we all feel the need to do more and upgrade, I would do just that, when and IF you have the funds and find an amp/processor and or receiver that is better sounding to you.
Hope this helps,
God Bless,
Wayne
God bless the child that's got his own.
The following user(s) said Thank You: T Cobe
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Offline school
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2301
- Thank you received: 4381
- Karma: 5
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
T Cobe
Posted
9 years 6 months ago
Moderator,
"Bi-Amp" is the term used by Onkyo/Integra. I was trying to use their language to communicate what I have done for my set up. The better term may be bridging two channels as I set the receiver to "bi-amp" and hook the speaker up to the positive on one channel and the negative on a separate channel. I'd definitely like to know the proper term for this configuration so that I don't confuse anyone further.
In any case, it's one speaker wire and more amp power and it sounds better. It's a small/incremental change but it's there and the receiver runs cooler. Thank you for the follow up and trying to keep us all straight!
Cheers,
T Cobe
"Bi-Amp" is the term used by Onkyo/Integra. I was trying to use their language to communicate what I have done for my set up. The better term may be bridging two channels as I set the receiver to "bi-amp" and hook the speaker up to the positive on one channel and the negative on a separate channel. I'd definitely like to know the proper term for this configuration so that I don't confuse anyone further.
In any case, it's one speaker wire and more amp power and it sounds better. It's a small/incremental change but it's there and the receiver runs cooler. Thank you for the follow up and trying to keep us all straight!
Cheers,
T Cobe
Speakers: Triton One L/R, SCXL, Aon 3 Surr/Back, HTR-7000 Height
Pre/Pro/AVR: Anthem AVM 60, Emotiva XSP-1
Amps: Emotiva XPA-5(2), Emotiva XPA-1L (2)
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Emotiva ERC-3, PS4, Pioneer PLX-1000 w/Ortofon 2M Bronze
Display: Epson 6030 UB, Elite Screens 110" Sable
Pre/Pro/AVR: Anthem AVM 60, Emotiva XSP-1
Amps: Emotiva XPA-5(2), Emotiva XPA-1L (2)
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Emotiva ERC-3, PS4, Pioneer PLX-1000 w/Ortofon 2M Bronze
Display: Epson 6030 UB, Elite Screens 110" Sable
The following user(s) said Thank You: WayneWilmeth
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Offline
- Moderator
- Posts: 3350
- Thank you received: 3419
- Karma: 19
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
Moderator
Posted
9 years 6 months ago
Yes, that sounds like that is a bridged mode setup, I didn't know the receiver offered that option, guess I better read up on that, thanks for the clarification. Seems like a good choice from your description of the results.
The following user(s) said Thank You: WayneWilmeth, T Cobe
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Offline school
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2301
- Thank you received: 4381
- Karma: 5
- arrow_drop_downMore arrow_drop_upLess
T Cobe
Posted
9 years 6 months ago
Hey, Art. The best advice I can give is to crack the manual on your Onkyo 3009. It has the same set up recommendations and options as my Integra 70.2. I looked it up on-line. I think the proper term is bridging versus bi-amp but that is what our manuals list, is in the set up menu, and is labeled that way on the back of our receivers. With your extensive knowledge of electronics, you could likely explain it better than I can. I apologize if my descriptions are confusing.
Cheers,
T Cobe
Cheers,
T Cobe
Speakers: Triton One L/R, SCXL, Aon 3 Surr/Back, HTR-7000 Height
Pre/Pro/AVR: Anthem AVM 60, Emotiva XSP-1
Amps: Emotiva XPA-5(2), Emotiva XPA-1L (2)
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Emotiva ERC-3, PS4, Pioneer PLX-1000 w/Ortofon 2M Bronze
Display: Epson 6030 UB, Elite Screens 110" Sable
Pre/Pro/AVR: Anthem AVM 60, Emotiva XSP-1
Amps: Emotiva XPA-5(2), Emotiva XPA-1L (2)
Sources: Oppo BDP-103D, Emotiva ERC-3, PS4, Pioneer PLX-1000 w/Ortofon 2M Bronze
Display: Epson 6030 UB, Elite Screens 110" Sable
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Moderators: Moderator
- home Forum
- arrow_forward
- Clubhouse
- arrow_forward
- Write Your Own Review
- arrow_forward
- Triton Series
- arrow_forward
- Triton One Review Part 1- Something New
menu
close
Menu
Account
-
- WoW Classic Season of Discovery Phase 6: What You ...
- In Support / Triton Series
- by RyujiSaeki
- 3 hours 56 minutes ago
-
- CoD: Black Ops 6 Bot Lobby/Redemption Code/Boostin...
- In Support / Triton Series
- by RyujiSaeki
- 4 hours 5 minutes ago
-
- Question Regarding SuperCinema 3D Array XL Center ...
- In Support / SuperCinema 3D Array
- by Moderator
- 1 day 18 hours ago
-
- Rumbling left speaker.
- In Write Your Own Review / Triton Series
- by Moderator
- 1 day 21 hours ago
-
- Triton Reference
- In Write Your Own Review / Triton Series
- by Moderator
- 2 days 22 hours ago
search
close
person_outline
arrow_back