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Voltage drop vrs amplifier output
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Outlaw#9 wrote: Thanks for your response, I would assume as voltage drops amperage draw is also up. I don't notice a loss in sound quality. I will with confidence drive it to the limit. I assume I'm not even getting close to the 380 plus RMS watts I can deliver to the T1. I don't expect to get there either just want awesome sound at concert like volume at times... thank you for your responses.
You're very welcome. And yes, I think you can get concert level volume (100+ db) without any issues.
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GDHAL wrote: Most electronic equipment has a wide enough range of voltage it can safely operate within. But you are stating that when you raise your amplifier volume the voltage is dropping. That seems a bit odd. What should happen, as far as I know, is that the voltage remains constant but the *amperage* draw is increased as you raise volume. Perhaps you should double check your measurements and/or the way you are reading them.
On voltage drop, I did some tests when I had my T1 speakers. I installed a Kill A Watt meter in line with the system and measured the voltage with relatively no load. Then I cranked up the volume with some low frequency pipe organ content to a pretty loud level. I found that the voltage did drop and system load demand went up. It didn't drop a lot, just a volt or so, but it was there.
This can happen when there is an upstream resistance in the electrical line. Even though this is a 20 A circuit, it is daisy chained across several outlets on the way to my system outlet. (I really should get this fixed by installing a dedicated line.) As current increases, so does voltage drop by Ohm's Law.
That said, I agree with GDHAL that this small a change should not have a bad effect on the sound of the system. I couldn't notice a difference.
Charlie
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One thing you can do if you haven't already is replace your standard electrical outlets with 20 A hospital grade. You can get these from Amazon for about $13. smile.amazon.com/Leviton-8300-W-125-Volt...+grade+outlet+20+amp
I had measured a larger drop on an outlet, and I thought it might be due to a bad connection between the plug and the outlet. Hospital grade outlets grip the plug very tightly and make a better connection. After I installed a hospital grade outlet, things were better. So I installed them on all three of my equipment feed outlets.
You can spend a lot more money on unobtainium coated, cryo treated and all that. I'm not convinced those would make a difference.
There's a clever article here about how to install them:
www.stereophile.com/artdudleylistening/1...#jRUqzLi0eb44tb1p.97
Charlie
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I also had certified Electrician run a dedicated 20 amp line to the wall behind my audio cabinet. The Electrician said they do about one a month in this area for audio or home theater systems, so it was not an unusual request. What was unusual was I gave him the outlet, 20 amp, hospital grade and he looked it over and said it was a good unit. A lot of the ones they install people stay with the $0.75 standard outlet. He was impressed with the brass mechanism that hold onto the male plug. Good "bite" on the male plug.
I run a big amp that is rated at 250 watts per channel at 8 ohms and even more at 4 ohms. Plus I wanted the dedicated line with nothing else on the line for minimum noise level. In my opinion it was worth the material and labor cost, especially when I saw how he got the cable to the location I wanted.
Finally I don't have a power line conditioner but have talked to 3 audio salesman and they tell me some affect the quality of the sound and some do not. The better ones run from $200 to $500 and even more. Isotek is a good one and I need to do some digging to get the names of the other ones that do not affect sound quality.
Del
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