GDHAL,

Same here on my end with the binding posts on my amp. Thy are cheap plastic and I wouldn't chance a tool to tighten them. I can get them reasonably tight due to the geometry and surface texture of the post. When time permits, I'm going to give this method a go. Thanks for sharing the idea. How do you strip the wire? Exacto knife and a lot of patience? It seems it may be a bit tricky.

Cheers,

T Cobe

Great question T Cobe. Okay, I'll disclose my secret

Heat.

Specifically, I use a pencil soldering iron to melt away the insulation, heating the PVC (we already established I'm not using the more expensive wire with Teflon or other exotic insulator) about 1 1/4 inches from the very end of the wire. When enough PVC is removed (i.e. I'm able to see the copper wire beneath it around the entire diameter), I twist braid it (in the direction the wire is already braided from the factory) while pulling it up until it is about 1/2 inch off of the wire, but not completely off the wire. This exposes the 1/2 or so of copper with no insulation. I then cut the excess 1/2 insulation at the very end.

There is a reason I do not use a wire stripper.

I've found that regardless of the type and quality of the stripper, invariably in order for the stripper to cut away enough insulation, it "crimps" and often even cuts one or two strands of wire. I want every single strand - uncompromised from crimping or excessive re-braiding of a stray wire - available at the connector. Yes I know in theory one or two missing strands does not matter, but to me it most certainly does, even if merely psychologically. And trust me, the wire stripper - even though it has pre-drilled holes that correspond to a particular gauge, does crimp to some degree the strands immediately beneath the insulation.

Note that I also take reasonable care not to heat the wire itself. Just the PVC. Some portion of the wire comes into contact with the soldering iron, but that is perfectly acceptable and in no way harms the wire. Also, I do realize that heat removal does not allow for as "clean cut" of the insulation as the cutter, but that too is irrelevant as the resulting cut from the soldering iron is still cosmetically acceptable and is hidden behind the speaker or amp anyway. Further, if one really wanted to, certain pencil points are very fine and the extreme end of the iron can be used to "fine tune" the cutting.

Absolutely good point, Mr. GDHAL. I will try that, provided the insulation will pass thru the binding post.
Thank you.