I use bare connection on my speaker cable (blue jeans 5T00UP). Recently I thought I might try a "different" way of making the connection, because over time (9 months?) given removal, oxidation (albeit minimal and debatable if an issue at all) and perhaps boredom I like to re-strip the ends.

I removed about 3/4 inch insulation, however, NOT at the very end, but about 1/2 inch from the end where insulation remains. In so doing I thought it would be easier to thread the end - with the insulation on it - through the binding post. It is. This also doesn't allow the wire to un-braid as readily. Further, the connection itself appears more uniform. Basically what I've done is strip a portion of the insulation so there remains bare wire sandwiched between insulation on both its right and left side.

I'm wondering if anyone else has used or uses this same technique, and if there is any negative in doing this, etc. As always on this forum, please share your experiences, opinions, etc.

Thanks.

Interesting idea, GDHAL. I may give that a try next time I redo my connections. Thank you!

Cheers,

T Cobe

Thanks. Yeah so far so good. While I cannot hear any change (improvement or detriment) it looks like a more solid connection. We all know the binding post should only be tightened by hand, no tools. I happen to have a fair amount of strength in my fingers and am able to make the connection very tight by hand. Previously, before this latest method, I noticed the binding posts are actually able to slightly flatten the wire. And I'm using a 10 gauge which is fairly thick. Now with this latest method, the wire is remaining braided throughout the entire binding post from entry to exit, and I'm applying just as much tension to tighten it. To me it just seems that if the wire is not completely uniform in its diameter throughout the binding post, that it may not actually make contact everywhere that it otherwise could. If that makes any sense

I'm pleasantly surprised that the wire, with the extra OD of insulation at the tip, threads through the ID of the binding post. Given that 10 gauge wire with insulation at the tip does thread through, it sounds like a great way to do it! 12 gauge and smaller should also be no sweat.

Good idea, GDHAL! I use banana plugs throughout because I tired of dealing with frayed wires when threading through the posts. This sounds like a great alternative!

Rick

GDHAL,

I also have the Belden 5T00UP speaker wire on hand. I think the rigidity of the wire due due the overall gauge and the relatively thick individual strands allow for the wire to hole its shape fairly well. I have played around a great deal with my connections as well.

I recently had banana plugs at the ends of my speaker wires. While they were gold plated, I believe the metal underneath was brass. I was experiencing a bit of high frequency loss along with a bit lower resolution in my 2-channel setup using the Belden wire with banana plugs versus an 18-7 Cerrowire brand wire I picked up at my local home improvement store. I had a hard time believing this generic wire would sound better than purpos built wire by Belden. I was having to bump the treble controls on my pre-amp up about it 3 dB to get the sound where it should be. On a hunch, I removed the bananas and the treble was back to where it should be: no treble boost necessary. I still found the Belden cable a little les detailed than the 18-7 wire.

This led me to believe that th connection between the wire and the speaker terminal was pretty crucial. I had another issue this weekend with spade terminal on a set of speaker wires I purchased. I don't believe they were getting a good connection when I first hooked them up to my amps. I had to manipulate the spades a bit and re-connect them to get everything where it should be. Bare wire into a speaker post could present the same issue, as could placing the wires in a banana connector. There is a lot of gaps in the context either way.

When connecting the spades, I admit I resorted to a small wrench to ensure solid contacts but used VERY light torque. Even with light torque and a small wrench, it was clear to me I had done a poor job finger tightening the posts. I felt like the sound was improved a bit after tightening things down: particularly with my SCXL that is connected with the Belden 5T00UP. It seemed to add a bit of clarity and power.

I guess in the end, I'm still at a bit of a loss as to the best way to connect the wires to the binding posted. I suppose paying someone to weld high quality terminations with high quality solder at the end of each wire would be the best way to ensure a quality connection. Short of that, using bare wire with solid tension on the speaker posts is the best way. The GET binding posts are very high quality, IMO. I don't have any other gear that even comes close.

Cheers,

T Cobe

Rick, I too despise frayed wire. This is one of the reasons I tried threading with the insulation on. When the wire frays, having to temporarily remove the wire to twist braid it again, to a small extent compromises the integrity of the particular strands that fray. This is compounded each time, and often the same strands fray once it happens. In a two channel setup there are 8 connections that need to be made at the binding posts, and I make it a point to do each one with the same precision and care. Any issue at any one the eight just isn't acceptable. I thought of banana plugs of course, but I just can't get past the fact that this is yet another connection point in the overall scheme of things, so in my view, at best they can merely be as good as bare wire when in fact - and as T Cobe has noted in his case - can be a detriment to the audio signal.

T Cobe, I agree the quality of the binding posts on the Tritons are very good. In fact, because they are a metal, perhaps your method of ever so slightly wrench tightening - like a mere 1/8 inch more turn than can be achieved by hand - makes sense. This isn't the case with the binding posts on my amp. They too are very good quality, but the outer sleeve is a think 1/4 plastic that surrounds the gold plated metal under it. Believe it or not I can get a tighter fit by hand with those than with the GET binding post, but in the case of the plastic - round to boot - no way I would take a tool to it. At least the nut on the speaker binding post is shaped to accept a small wrench for that purpose.